Thursday, October 24, 2013

Highlights from Bridal Market Fall 2014: The Short-sleeved Gowns



Welcome back to our round-up of best looks from Bridal Market!  Today, we review the short-sleeved and cap-sleeved gowns, which made for quite a lovely collection.  Short sleeves have not been a terribly popular choice for brides in recent years, but they offer a simple primness for a look that tends to be more pretty and romantic than it is sophisticated or glamorous.  See the wedding gown of Princess Madeleine of Sweden, designed by Valentino Garavani -- Yes, that Valentino -- as a notable example.  If the pretty-oriented, short-sleeved wedding gown becomes a phenomenon, then we may have Madde to thank. 

Moving on.  Our opening pick above, by Reem Acra, stood out among the short-sleeved offerings.  It is one of the more sophisticated designs we'll see today, with generous jewel embellishment around the ballet neckline and a broad A-line skirt.  It's shown here with a sparkly belt, but substituting a narrow band of matching white fabric or ribbon may serve to nip in the waist without interrupting the flow of color from bodice to hem.  My two cents.

A few of the short-sleeved looks went far in the "pretty" direction.  The platinum-hued gown below, from Naeem Khan, has an off-the-shoulder cap-sleeved blouson and is tied with a bit of ribbon at the waist.  It's a peasant-like look for the Bohemian bride. 


Marchesa gave us another belted gown with a ballet neckline.  Beautifully gathered and draped chiffon fans out into an elegant train.  The star, though, is the beaded and embroidered mesh bodice, characteristic of Marchesa's eye for ornate detail. 


Here we have quite a powerful look from Naeem Khan.  It feels fit for Athena; silver-clad, yet feminine.  I could see Michelle Obama, a fan of Khan's, wearing this gown or a more pigmented version of it.


This is a stunner from Monique Lhuillier.  Lace flower capped sleeves appear rooted in the structured, bow-shaped bodice, but they actually are affixed to a barely visible illusion panel that covers the décolletage.  What a graceful, interesting look, and one that likely would flatter various body types.


Monique Lhuillier also presented a more playful gown, below.  The combination of floral lace with gridded embroidery lends a patchwork quality to the piece.  Notice, too, how the placement of the grid pattern creates an hourglass shape, enhancing the middle.


Reem Acra contributed two all-lace gowns.  They use the same sheer lace material, layered over nude lining, and are virtually identical from the waist down (No complaints here.).  The first gown features a deep, wide v-neck, and a capped sleeve that lays a bit like a petal over the edge of the shoulder. 


The second all-lace Acra gown has a high bateau neck, and therefore a more substantial sleeve.  It's finished with a chain-link motif jeweled belt.  (I have to comment on the marabou headpieces, which drive me crazy and may distract from Ms. Acra's brilliant work, especially the more daring looks, in the eyes of some consumers.  Even from a different angle, they're just a bit odd.) 

 

What was that about Reem Acra's daring looks?  Here's another one for you.  (And, again, lining would sort out the bare navel situation in a jiff. :)  This woman appears to have emerged from the tides, bringing sea foam and star dust as she comes.  The gown is the most glamorous of the short-sleeved selection, by a long shot, and I would not be surprised to see it, probably in color, on a Hollywood starlet once awards season arrives. 


What do you think?  Would you say "yes" to one of these short-sleeved dresses? 

Tomorrow, our final (!) installment of Bridal Market reviews: the long(er)-sleeved gowns.  See you then!

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